This NYTimes article announces a ‘radical change’ in the dress code for men at this year’s Met Gala for the costume institute. This year, “full evening dress” is required, meaning tailcoats, white waistcoats and white bowties:
These are not tuxedos. Anyone referring to this as a tuxedo will be shot.*
The problem being: not many men own one of these most-formal-of-formal suits, and the biggest retailer for tails are usually rental companies for weddings. The Met Gala is NOT a place to wear a rental suit. So – does that mean some of the fine bespoke tailors in NYC will be getting calls for new tails?
It will certainly be interesting to see how the “neutral background” deal with this new sartorial dictate. Will they be content to stay in the background? Or will some dudes dare to shake up the strict rules of formalwear by putting their own spin on things?
Formalwear is, in my opinion, one of the most interesting components of menswear to study, for – aside from military dress – it is the most codified of all the “uniforms” that men participate in. And what is it like, to be in a room full of people all in this formalwear, where all the men are wearing exactly the same thing, and no women look anything alike. See how interesting that is? For women, the goal is to stand out, to wear something no one else is wearing, to make a statement. For men, the ultimate goal is to look just like everybody else. And aren’t both genders interested in shaking up these rules? I’d much rather spend the evening in white tie, myself. Wouldn’t that be novel? To be comfortable, to blend in, to not worry about what people thought of your choice of attire. To be blissfully unconcerned with strapless bras, pinchy shoes, and stifling undergarments? And I know there are men who are sick of blending in, who would like to experiment with something as radically daring as (gasp!) color, who want to express something about their personalities, to have a little fun.
Cecil Beaton’s famous photo of Charles James ballgowns
So, I don’t know about you, but beyond the architectural marvels of those gorgeous Charles James dresses, I’ll be looking to see how carefully men follow the rules, and if there are any women who think that any rules that pertain to men might work for them too.
*If you don’t know the difference between formal and semi-formal men’s evening attire, I happen to offer a lecture in exactly that very issue, The History of Male Formalwear. You and your students will never mis-use the word “tuxedo” again.
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